It's SO very Knice here in Knysna!

This must be one of the most beautiful towns we seen yet - and that's saying something! Knysna is a small coastal town on the Garden Route, Eastern Cape province, perched on the edge of a large and lovely 'lagoon', with a backdrop of beautiful mountains a few miles to its north. The river estuary has two impressively craggy headlands (known as the Kynsna Heads) which almost meet each other at the estuary's outlet to the Indian Ocean, creating a large blue 'lagoon' of clear turquoise water inside the estuary - fresh-water from the river meeting the salt-water from the sea somewhere in the middle - complete with two fairly large natural islands, both with road access from different parts of the estuary, and on both of which there are houses, restaurants and shops.

 



Though it looks stunningly gorgeous, this particular river-mouth is one of the deadliest in the world - so deadly, in fact, that Lloyds of London, the world's most famous shipping brokers/insurers, have for many years refused to insure any ships of any kind trying to pass between the Knysna 'Heads', either into this natural harbour, or out from it to the Indian Ocean. That, of course, means that there is no longer an industrial port here, and no cruise ships can ever visit - so there are some advantages in this restriction, at least in terms of natural beauty. There is, however, considerable 'internal' boating activity on the lagoon - dozens of small motor-boats, many with water-skiers attached, lots of beautiful yachts, a few house-boats, a couple of ferries and cruisers offering tours around the lagoon, and even a large-ish New Orleans-style paddle steamer on which passengers can enjoy gourmet meals and sunset cruises. In fact, yesterday (New Year's Eve) we took a trip on a cruise-boat across the lagoon to visit the Featherbed Nature Reserve on the Western headland, and the whole trip, including a wonderful buffet lunch at the end of the walk around the reserve was just a delight! Once across the lagoon, we were all transported from where the boat docked up to the top of the headland on a kind of tractor/trailer, and then allowed to walk slowly back down, enjoying the spectacular views across the heads and the ocean from some of the viewing points, and stopping to visit the amazing caves nearer the bottom of the cliffs.



So, it's very much a tourist/holiday destination, and, rather like Cape Town, feels very Mediterranean rather than truly 'African' (or what we regards as truly African, that is). Nevertheless, it IS really beautiful, and we've been enjoying temperatures in the high 20s, with unbroken sunshine and clear blue skies since we arrived - so we're not complaining!

 



Our accommodation here, too, is equally beautiful. As I write this on New Year's Day, we're sitting by the beautiful salt-water pool, complete with jacuzzi and rock-face waterfall, surrounded by the most verdant garden of tree-ferns, banana trees, fynbos bushes, sweet-scented honeysuckle, herb-bushes and lawns, in which are flitting about some gorgeously coloured birds and butterflies.

 



A real Garden of Eden! There are four beautiful, and beautifully-appointed houses within the grounds, all of different styles, which are holiday rentals, and the young German couple who own the place are serious birders and nature-lovers, so have planted the grounds to encourage both - including, much to theirs and our delight, the 'Knysna lourie', only found in and around the Knysna area and distinguishable from other louries by their bright scarlet under-wing feathers.

 



Last night, New Year's Eve, our hosts, Martina and Philipp, put on a braai meal for all of their 12 guests - including two couples from Germany over here for the world-class golf courses nearby; three people from Sweden, one of whom had been an official Election Observer in South Africa for its first-ever democratic elections in 1994; and one family comprising a German man and his Chilean wife and daughter, all currently living in Egypt. So, an interesting combination, some fascinating conversations, and a really fun evening. Martina and Philip had set out several tables amongst the trees near to the swimming pool, and we enjoyed our meal under a beautiful view of the Milky Way in the dark blue skies, right beside the little , well-stocked cave in which there is an 'honesty' bar for guests, complete with coloured fairy lights and a music system, with a little dance-floor just outside of it, which we made good use of. A really lovely occasion. We celebrated the South African New Year at midnight, the New Year for most of Europe at 1 o'clock, and a few of us even managed to stay up for the British New Year at 2 o'clock!

 

So, as we close this particular posting,

let us wish you all much happiness, good health,

and hopefully lots of fun in 2014!